Good Morning Vietnam

Going into Vietnam I had great expectations: warm weather, nice beaches, and a new culture to get to know. I was looking forward to a change in scenery. Three weeks in China was amazing, but I was getting worn down by the stares and general lack of consideration for one another. I was really banking on the Vietnamese people being friendlier. Turns out they are much friendlier then I could have ever imagined… however, the smiles come with a motive.

Money is everything here in Vietnam. No one has it and everybody wants it. This first became evident during the border crossing. For a small bribe you could have your passport whisked through the stack. There was no official process on getting your passports looked at and stamped. You just had to wait patiently until they got around to it. Mine was passed between four border officials before I got it back. Many people came and went while I waited. I’ve never seen such open and blatant bribery.

In Ha Noi you could get anything you needed without have to look for it. Someone was always trying to get you into their restaurant, store, or taxi. People set up carts on the sidewalk selling water, gum, ice cream, and other treats. Others walked around offering services or shoe shining, book sales, and baskets of baked goods. I didn’t find the people of Ha Noi too pushy because there were enough westerners to make a sale off of. As the capitol city of Vietnam backpackers, expats, and embassy families are plentiful. It makes for an eclectic mix of people.

Vietnam is rich with history, French architecture, amazing street food, and an interesting system of organized chaos. Below, a simple list of simple things Ha Noi has to offer:

Pho:
Rice noodle soup. It is a traditional breakfast and can be found on just about every street corner for about a dollar. Pho Bo (beef) and Pho Ga (chicken) are the most popular choices. We went on a bit of a Pho kick eating it two or three times a day. It is delicious and inexpensive so how can you resist. Best of all: you eat it at a tiny plastic table while sitting on tiny plastic stools. Quick and dirty.

Bia Hoi:
Fresh, golden, and refreshing. Yes, I am talking about beer. Bia Hoi is popular among old Vietnamese men and backpackers alike. For a whooping 4,000 VND a glass (20cents), who could or would resist? Bia Hoi is so inexpensive because it is brewed in a week and must be finished the day the metal keg is tapped. There is one corner in Ha Noi dubbed “Bia Hoi” because on each corner of the intersection there is a keg. When one is tapped the crowd moves to the next until the beer is gone. Once again, everyone sits on plastic chairs on the sidewalk. Best way to enjoy a cold one if you ask me.

Crossing the street:
This simple task requires great skills and patience Vietnam. The reason: motorbikes. Everyone drives one and stoplights are rarely obeyed. The trick to getting yourself from one side to the other is one step at a time. Literally. Evoke all clichés now: slow and steady gets you across the street safely. Just step out on the street, take it slow, and the motorbikes will plan their route around you. Intimidating at first, but once you get the hang of it its good fun and entertaining.

I really enjoyed my time in Ha Noi. We met some great people and relaxed as we wandered the streets. We ate well and quickly learned just how cheap traveling in Vietnam is.